What Makes a Good Shoe? Why Our Current Thinking is Outdated & Wrong
Consider this when thinking about what makes a good shoe.
Your modern heeled and arch-supportive shoes are probably bad for you.
There, I’ve said it.
No doubt they look and feel great but are they also creating a legacy that will define the future health of your legs and back?
It’s a bold statement considering almost every Physiotherapist, Doctor, Podiatrist and shoe store will likely promote the opposite. We’ll also mount a strong case I might add.
It’s important to recognize the significance of the modern shoe because it does help many feel and function better.
Yet despite these benefits, we’re potentially missing the bigger picture. BIG TIME. So much so that we might be heading off in the opposite direction to where we should be.
If we just look at things a little differently, we might see what truly makes a good shoe long-term.
The Anatomy of the Modern Shoe
Interestingly, a recent study looked at the most Googled shoes over the last 12 months (2018-2019).
From over 1,000 shoes it found the Nike Air Max 97 to be the most popular.
For posterity, here are the remaining top 10:
- Nike Air Max 270
- Vans Old Skool
- Nike Air Max Plus
- New Balance 574
- Nike Air Max 90
- Nike Air Max 95
- Adidas Superstar
- Adidas Stan Smith
- Nike React Element 87
If you look through each of the top 10, you’ll notice they share many structural features with most other current-day shoes.
Features of Modern Shoes
- Arch support
- Thick sole
- Thick heel at the back
- Narrow forefoot
- Relatively strong, rigid structure
Now each of these has a purpose – a mix of support, protection from the elements, cushioning and aesthetics. Each make us feel good in a number of ways, otherwise we simply wouldn’t buy them.
Yet, these bells and whistles distract us from what’s most important.
Our feet don’t need help.
Or at least they shouldn’t.
We are born with technology far more sophisticated than anything we have or maybe will develop in terms of footwear.
To be more specific, our bare feet have all the arch and heel they supposedly need. The soles of our feet are designed to contact, contour and feel the ground.Our bare feet have all the arch and heel they supposedly needClick To Tweet
The skin is different here for a reason.
Our Achilles have an amazing ability to absorb the shock from walking, running and jumping, and it does so in harmony with the rest of the body.
The foot is both flexible and strong.
Our feet are designed to be feet. They aren’t necessarily designed to be caged, controlled and desensitized to the outside world 100% of the time.
They Make Me Feel Good So Who Cares
From what I see clinically as a Physiotherapist it seems that we have become confused as to the difference between what helps to make us feel better and what’s ultimately “optimal”.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with wearing a shoe that helps you move more and feel better – you deserve to.
But it’s very important to understand that modern shoe technology is often just compensating for something you’re missing. Something you should have but for some reason have unknowingly lost.Modern shoe technology is often just compensating for something you're missingClick To Tweet
Something you should try and reclaim.
To highlight this let’s take one of the most easily recognizable features of most footwear, arch support.
The idea behind it is sound. Flat feet are the mechanical foundation for a lot of our foot and lower leg complaints. So we give the arch support and things improve. Problem solved, right?
Yes… and not at all.
What happens when you take those shoes off?
Arch support will stop an arch from collapsing, but it won’t stop an arch from wanting to collapse.Arch support will stop an arch from collapsing, but it won't stop an arch from wanting to collapseClick To Tweet
It’s a symptomatic treatment not a fix.
As soon as you take them off or change to an “unsupportive” shoe the crutch is gone.
Again, this is still useful depending on your overall goals, but be aware of it’s place in the overall scheme of things.
So let’s break down what’s important to know here.
Why Do Arches Flatten?
It may surprise you to know that flat feet aren’t a foot issue, they’re a leg issue. If you have a mix of stiff ankles and tight and/or weak hips, your entire leg will accrue a tendency to collapse inwards. It does so in an attempt to work around these issues. And you can see this on yourself in real-time.
Firstly, stand up.
Next, keep your feet straight and rotate your knees outwards without your big toes lifting. You should see and feel those arches lift. Relax and collapse back in again and watch those beautiful arches flatten.
So if you can imagine putting an arch support underneath all this, you’re stopping something for sure, but not stopping anything if that makes sense? Those arches will consistently continue to collapse until the overall leg mechanics are resolved – whether they are in a supported environment or not.
Why Are Heeled Shoes Bad For Us?
Next, let’s take a heeled shoe. Almost every shoe today has a thick heel at the back. We aren’t just talking a six-inch Stilleto, but any simple raise at the back.
This is a very important feature of most shoes.
Cushioning the heel is supposed to help with shock absorption and comfort. In the short term it may help your running feel nicer and it may even help alleviate lower leg discomfort, but at what long-term cost?
The problem with any long term exposure to any heel is that the size of the heel equates to the exact amount of ankle range you don’t get to use. And over time you lose it.The size of a shoe's heel equates to the exact amount of ankle range you don't get to use.Click To Tweet
The shoe may feel nicer in the short term because it supports a potential hole in your mechanics, but it will directly contribute to a number of issues down the track as your available ankle range of motion decreases.
Considering there is a strong clinical link between stiff ankles and a large number of lower leg issues, is there really a need for an additional heel at all?
For effect, here is a link to an article by the good folk at Runner’s World. It’s entitled “Best Running Shoes of 2017”.
Here is another one to the “10 Best Men’s Running Shoes for 2018.”
For women, here’s a link to an article on the “Best Running Shoes for Women.”
Notice that every single shoe has an unnecessary heel and curved toe-end. Some are monstrously thick.
Why Do We Have Heeled Shoes in the First Place?
This is a story for another day, but heels were introduced to running shoes to help support the fundamentally flawed “heel-strike” running pattern. To cut a very long story short, we begin to heel strike as compensation for a number of modern-day issues. The most impactful of which is often all the sitting we do.
These issues often begin at school-age and are maintained by a life of work, driving, couches and TVs. Our hips are now prone to being stiff and heel striking is a likely consequence.
If you think heel striking is normal, take off your shoes and try to heel strike your way across some concrete… it doesn’t work. Try sprinting with or without shoes and you’ll see the same.
The irony here is that we’ve subtly ended up this way over time. As our issues have accumulated we’ve attempted to create a solution. This shoe tech supports our already altered mechanical state, it doesn’t correct it.
What Makes a Good Shoe?
In an ideal world when talking about someone with already good mechanics, a good shoe needs to mimic the foot as closely as possible. We want:
- Footwear that is self-securing so the foot can concentrate on being a foot, not holding material in place.
- A lack of arch support so a healthy arch can do what it’s designed to do.
- A flat shoe that allows the both the heel and toes to be in contact with the ground. Any heel is counterproductive as are shoes with a raised toe-end.
- Flexible, malleable soles because the foot is flexible. Thanks to the modern world we still need a sole that is tough and durable.
- A broader toe-end so that our toes can be toes. We don’t want them morphed into a pointy mess just for the sake of aesthetics.
- Lightweight design that adds as little extra weight as possible to the leg.
- A shoe that still looks good. It’s important to feel that you can still exist in our modern society without feeling silly for trying to do something relatively different.
In fairness it would be so much easier if we could just be barefoot all the time, but the state of modern terrain, hygiene and social standards currently make that hard. We need to find a suitable balance.
Barefoot (or minimalist) shoes are thankfully becoming more popular. The classic minimalist shoe most will have some awareness of are the “toed” shoes.
A shoe like the Vibram FiveFingers is an extreme example of what a minimalist shoe might look like. These shoes are fantastic for letting the feet do their thing.
They’re really just designed to protect you from the elements and not influence your foot mechanics. Those toes definitely get the chance to be toes, right!
In my opinion they’re great shoes, but they often deter people purely because they look different. Aesthetically, they make the transition to a toed shoe that little more awkward for someone.
Thankfully, there are more and more minimalist shoes and shoe companies coming out in the market place – represented by companies like VivoBarefoot.
Whether extreme barefoot shoes or a more simplistic one fit your personality, we need to aim to feel comfy in this type of shoe at some stage.
Why Do My Barefoot Shoes Hurt?
This is probably the most important topic to cover.
If you jump straight in to a pair of barefoot shoes there’s every chance you might feel sore and uncomfortable. But make no mistake, this isn’t the shoe’s fault.
Without wanting to sound too harsh, it’s your fault – respectfully of course.
Any discomfort just means you are yet to undo years of accrued stiffness, tightness and weakness from traditional footwear and modern living.
Barefoot shoes will expose deteriorated mechanics. They will teach you something about yourself you can’t possibly learn in traditional shoes.Barefoot shoes will expose deteriorated mechanicsClick To Tweet
Something that’s really hard to appreciate without looking for it.
They’ll give you great perspective on how you are really going. And that’s OK if you want to keep learning about yourself and improving.
If you work on improving your stiff and tight bits over time, you should ultimately expect to feel fantastic in barefoot shoes.
Running a marathon in minimalist shoes will need a higher level of normalized mechanics than simple walking but the idea is the same.
It’s on us to make the changes if we care enough. Shoes alone aren’t the answer, just the wallpaper.
I’ve covered some simple exercises that will help you transition to minimalist shoes in an article on Achilles Tendonitis. It’s not specifically shoe-related but it’s all relevant.
The nature of modern footwear is one of constant deterioration. The more time you spend in an accessorized shoe the stiffer and weaker you’ll likely become. It’s how the body works.
As it stands, both sides of the traditional vs minimalist shoe debate have really solid points to make.
If you just want to survive and feel good now, a “good shoe” will be what best supports any current issues you may have.
If you just want a better buffer against whatever underlying issues are there, then fair enough. It’s how most of us are currently living without realizing it.
But please remember those underlying issues won’t magically go away on their own, and may actually lead to more issues down the track.
If you progress to a minimalist shoe and feel crappy in some way – congratulations, you’ve just learned something about yourself. Something you can change.
Try to re-engage and re-awaken those desensitized, debilitated modern feet.
Work on restoring normal function to your feet and ankles and you’ll feel great in them eventually.
Don’t go straight from a built up beast to nothing overnight. Consider making your next pair of shoes one with less heel and less support. Make the next one after that less again. Take your time getting back to normal.
If nothing else, please consider being barefoot more often.
Ultimately, please keep an open mind. These ideas can seem awkward at first as they contradict a lot of today’s advice.
But with enough perspective you can hopefully appreciate that a good shoe is one that takes a back seat and lets your foot do what it’s meant to.A good shoe is one that takes a back seat and lets your foot do what it's meant toClick To Tweet
Is this news to you? What are your thoughts on barefoot shoes? Let me know in the comments!
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